Sospel

Sospel is in a very strategic location in the rich alluvial valley at the confluent of the Bévera (where three valleys converge) and the Merlanson that continues to the south. The town was a staging post on the old Route de Sel (Salt Road, or Salt Mule Road) and on the old Royal Road between Turino and Nice.

The main road crossed the Bévera by a fortified bridge (pont fortifié) built in the 12th century and used as a toll bridge for the travelers. This picturesque bridge, also called the "vieux pont", is a double-arched stone bridge with a covered guard tower in the center. The bridge [photo] was damaged in the Second World War, then rebuilt using the original stones. Until very recently (2004), the guard tower housed the Office de Tourisme.

Sitting astride the Bévera, Sospel is grouped into two distinct old-towns, one on each side of the river. The streets of the old town (both halves) are very narrow between the tall buildings, and they're very cool during the hottest summers. In general, the old streets are rather dingy and run-down, but with a distinct Medieval atmosphere and a feeling by Beyond that they're for practical everyday use rather than being abandoned. If the old streets aren't as pretty as many of the other Medieval Beyond villages, they're still interesting to explore, and you'll discover surprising things in your wanderings.

The highlights of Sospel for Beyond are: the river with it fortified toll bridge; the facades of the houses along the south side of the river; the Place Saint Michel with its cathedral and other surrounding buildings; the trompe l'oeil facades and sundials at various places around the town.

The southeast side of town (across the river) is the least interesting as far as touristic sites, but we like the main square, Place St. Nicolas, just past the end of the old bridge. Faded and un-restored, it's still picturesque and has a popular terrace café beneath the arches that's especially "authentic".

The Place Saint Michel is by far the most colorful and picturesque site in Sospel. The various facades around the square include the bright orange ocres of the multi-arched building now housing administrative offices and the bibliotheque municipale (town library), nicely restored and with its sundial. The imposing 17th-18th century Saint Michel cathedral, with its ornate carvings and the contrasting stone bell tower was restored in 1888, and retains its 1641 Renaissance facade and its 13th century clock tower.

A variety of other buildings, all interesting, but in varying states, from freshly restored and painted to ancient and faded, with old signs and markings giving a flavor of the past.

Driving

Sospel is a crossroads town, popular with cyclists, motorcyclists and fans of twisty-road driving. Even if you aren't a driving or riding enthusiast, the roads all have magnificent scenery and views of Beyond.

The most direct route up from the coast is the D2566 from Menton, or the A8 autoroute Menton exit. About 15 km, past Castellar and via Monti, you'll see the tall, curving structure of the Viaduc du Caramel where a narrow-gauge railway once passed.

From the center of Nice, or the Nice-Nord exit of the A8 autoroute, drive up the Peillon valley via l'Escarène and over the Col de Braus. About 40 kms this way, and the Col de Braus is famous with cyclist. The Nice-Cuneo railway line passes deep under the mountain, tunneled all the way from l'Escarène to Sospel.

Northwest from Sospel, the D2566 goes up through the Gorges de Piaon 24 km to the Col de Turini. This beautiful road is famous for automobile ralleys, including the Rally Monte-Carlo.

Northeast from Sospel, the D2204 goes 20 km up over the Col de Brouis to join the Roya Valley just north of Breil-sur-Roya. This is the main route to the upper Roya Valley and the lovely Beyond towns of Saorge, St Dalmas-de-Tende, La Brigue and Tende, or over the Col de Tende into Italy.

Olive Oil Mill

Sospel has a working "moulin à huile" just outside town, with a good reputation. We ran out of time on our last visit and didn't quite get around to seeing the mill.

Menton-Sospel Tramway

A narrow-gauge tramway was built in 1913 to link Menton and Sospel. The tramway route followed roughly the route of today's D2566 road, north from Menton, past the little villages of Monti, the turnoff to Castellar, and Castillon. One of the few remaining parts of the tramway line still visible is the high, curved viaduct of Caramel about 10 km north of Menton.

Heading up the road, your first view is of a low, multi-arched viaduct crossing the road. Continuing up around the bend you see the main viaduct, sweeping out to the right over the valley, then curving back around to the left to eventually rejoin the hillside just where the road kinks back in another hairpin. A couple of km further up towards Sospel, the road bores through the mountain in a 1000-m long tunnel that was built for the tramway.

Maginot Line

About 3 km south of Sospel on the D2204 (the Col de Braus road) stands the of Le Barbonnet, once a part of the famous Maginot Line. An original Le Barbonnet fort was built on the 837 m high peak in 1883-1886. In 1932 the high fort was renovated and put into fighting shape. In 1940 the lower "gros ouverage" of the Maginot line was built, including a tunnel linking the two parts.

Today there's a small private museum with some quite interesting items and information and, interestingly enough, the fort is still occupied by the French Army.

There's a second, smaller fort built into the hilltop directly south of town. It's less than an hour's walk to the top, out the road past the railway station and the swimming pool.