By Pat and Steve Craddock
Inland Provence is always pictured as a tranquil landscape of lavender fields and quaint villages, and visitors may be quite surprised at the wild scenery and the opportunities for adventure recreation just a few kilometres from the coastal tourist centres.
Via ferrata, a brilliant new mountain recreation initiated in Italy, has recently been enthusiastically adopted by French tourist bodies and may now be pursued at crags throughout the Alpes Maritimes. Altogether, there are about 110 routes in France (2006).
An excursion up a via ferrata is not rock climbing, though it takes place in a similarly precipitous setting. In fact, via ferrata is to climbing as riding a first bicycle with training wheels is to riding a Tour de France champion's machine. In other words, it requires none of the skill, commitment and experience required for climbing , though it gives something of the same pleasure. If you enjoy climbing, you may enjoy a via ferrata in your declining years, as I do; if you enjoy a via ferrata you may be inspired to try "real" climbing. Provence offers tremendous scope for both sports.
What is a via ferrata?
A suitable cliff is equipped with rungs and holds to facilitate climbing, and strong cables are provided alongside to the route so that any active person - not necessarily an experienced climber - may be self-protected and climb easily into a thrilling vertical playground. Any adventurous man or woman who loves hiking or velo tout terrain cycling in the mountains will find the thrill offered by a via ferrata unforgettable.
In addition to simple face climbing, many via ferrata also offer acrobatic diversions such as wire bridges or passerelles to cross.
What equipment do I need?
Unlike other adventure pursuits, via ferrata is even available to the passing tourist travelling light because all the simple equipment required may be inexpensively hired at the tourist office. You just need a sturdy pair of trainers. Proper climbing shoes are not needed and you may find them to be very uncomfortable on the rungs. Whatever the conditions when you set out, you would be well advised to take a water bottle and a light fibrepile or windproof top to protect you from the wind.
How do I get started?
We can best describe how it's done by using as an example the via ferrata Les Demoiselles du Castagnet, at Puget Théniers, a very beautiful example in a great setting, accessible from the scenic Train des Pignes from Nice or Digne les Bains.
First pay your fee for parking and gear hire at the Maison de Pays, the village tourist office, where they will fit you with a harness, belaying system and helmet. They also give you a guide brochure with a map and topo - a crag photo marked with the route - and explain the various techniques you will use to safeguard yourself.
From the carpark by the magnificent Var River, walk for fifteen minutes up the trail to the crag. The route itself is 750m long, including three wire bridges and the summit ridge stroll. The actual cliff is 260m high, rising above a delightful alpine meadow with an ancient farmhouse.
Get into your harness and helmet and set off up the obvious rungs, clipping yourself to the cable as you go. The safeguarding technique is explained by a plaque at the start, as are any other special techniques required along the way. Just when you are getting blasé and used to the exposure over the drop, you will come to the exciting pont himalayen - a wire bridge crossing at a cleft.
The next section, a steep headwall, will tune you up nicely for the tiptoe across the narrow summit ridge which is safeguarded with cables on short pillars. Wonder at the soaring eagles and pause to enjoy the simply superb views to the nearby historic perched village and fortress of Entrevaux, and the orchards and valley of the glacial river below!
After a short, steep descent, head across a longer wire bridge, the pont du singe, to the most exciting pitch, the 85m tyrolean traverse; a swift swoop across the void suspended from a pulley. Anyone who considers this section to be too exciting (as I did, in strong winds) may easily take the alternative route to the return path.
You will complete the route in about 2 1/2 hours with a lovely descent across an eroded ridge of robines to the forest and meadows, then back to the river bank.
Is it safe?
Any active person prepared to take in the simple safety procedures will find it to be very safe, as the equipment is superb and the engineering work on the crags is done to a very high standard. If you are interested, but don't feel confident, you may wish to book a guide from the tourist office to accompany you on the excursion.
Is a via ferrata suitable for children?
Sensible teenagers would be fine on most routes, and many venues offer short, simple practice climbs for smaller children and beginners.
Where may I read more about via ferrata?
Tourist offices in relevant areas have brochures, while guidebooks to the via ferrata of France have been published by a number of authors including Pascal Sombardier and Philippe Poulet.
Where are the via ferrata of Haute Provence?
- La Traditionelle, Auron [map, NW]
- Baus de la Frema, Colmiane [map, center]
- La Brigue, La Brigue
- La Grande Fistoire, Le Caire [map, NW]
- Saint Ours, Meyronnes
- Ferrata de la Peille, Peille [map, NE]
- Les Demoiselles du Castagnet, Puget-Théniers
- Via Ferrata des Canyond de Lantosque, Lantosque
And elswehere?
There are numerous other via ferrata in the nearby Savoie, Haut Savoie, Isére and the Hautes Alpes, all listed on the via ferrata website:
www.viaferrata.org/c2france.html
Other websites are at:
www.randonneur.net/
www.chez.com/lesviaferrata/
And if you wondered how the sport originated, many alpine peaks in the Dolomites were equipped with fixed safety cables so that mountain troops could reach forts and observation posts built during the world wars. These dilapidated systems were used as the inspiration for the development of this exciting new recreation. Some routes, such as the via ferrata du Diable at Aussois-La Norma, near Chambéry, still climb to ruined forts.
This article is copyrighted by Pat and Steve Craddock.
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Photo gallery of One large photo for Via Ferrata in Provence
